Can You Use AHA/BHA and Retinol Together? Plus The Benefits of Each

Simple answer, No you should not use AHA/BHA and retinol in the same routine, but you can use them on alternating routines. There’s a good reason why, read on to find out.

The hype surrounding active skincare ingredients is completely warranted, especially for someone struggling with acne, hyperpigmentation or skin texture issues.

With this confirmation, you are probably gearing up to stock up your cabinets with AHAs, BHAs and Retinoids. But not so fast, because without a careful plan, you might just do more harm than good to your skin.

Before rushing to our favorite skincare store, it’s important to understand how to use these magic ingredients and the things to avoid.

Which begs the question, can these ingredients be mixed? We’ll get deeper into that, but first, let’s understand what they are and the magic they bring to your skin.

Note: Both the acids (BHA and AHA) and retinol can have side effects including skin purging. To manage this, you must use sunscreen while using any of these agents. A hydrating moisturizer or face oils can also help nourish and restore the skin.

What are AHA and BHA?

AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid and BHA, Beta Hydroxy Acid. Both of these are chemical exfoliants that help shed off the dead skin layer quicker and increase skin cell turnover.¹

The difference is, AHAs are water soluble and work on the surface of the skin, while BHAs are oil soluble and soaks deeper into the skin, working from underneath. These acids are often extracted from plants and milk, but can also be synthesized in the laboratory.²

Common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and malic acid, and salicylic acid is the most prevalent BHA.

What Skin Issues Do AHA and BHAs Solve?

Because these acids help with the skin cell turnover, which involves shedding off the dull, tough and unhealthy dead skin and revealing a fresher smoother skin, they end up solving a number of skin issues:

Benefits of AHA

Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots:

• How: AHAs, particularly glycolic and lactic acids, exfoliate the surface of the skin, promoting the shedding of pigmented skin cells and encouraging the growth of new, even-toned skin cells.
• Result: Reduction in the appearance of sunspots, age spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles:

• How: By promoting exfoliation and increasing cell turnover, AHAs can help smooth the surface of the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Result: A smoother, more youthful complexion.

Dull and Uneven Skin Texture:

• How: AHAs remove the build-up of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath.
• Result: Brighter, more radiant skin with improved texture.

Dry and Dehydrated Skin:

• How: Certain AHAs, like lactic acid, have humectant properties, meaning they attract and retain moisture in the skin.
• Result: Improved hydration levels and softer skin.

Benefits of BHA

Acne and Breakouts:

• How: BHAs, especially salicylic acid, penetrate deep into the pores, exfoliating the lining and helping to clear out sebum and dead skin cells.
• Result: Reduction in the occurrence of blackheads, whiteheads, and acne breakouts.

Oily Skin:

• How: By penetrating and exfoliating inside the pores, BHAs help to control excess oil production and prevent clogged pores.
• Result: Less oily, more balanced skin.

Inflammation and Redness:

• How: BHAs have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help soothe and calm irritated skin.
• Result: Reduced redness and a calmer complexion.

Rough Skin Texture:

• How: BHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin as well as within the pores, smoothing out rough texture and uneven skin.
• Result: Smoother, more refined skin texture.

What are Retinols?

Retinol is the most common and easily available form of vitamin A. As opposed to other strong retinoids like Tretinoin and Adapalene, retinol is easily accessible and you can get it over the counter. If you have a more persistent and serious issue, you can get a higher percentage retinol with a prescription.

Retinols are made in the form of serum, gel, cream and emollients.

What Skin Issues Do Retinol Solve?

Retinol is mostly reputable for its benefits on mature-looking skin, as it helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also effective in shrinking enlarged pores and reducing hyperpigmentation.³

But retinol also has other benefits which we have listed below:

Skin Issues Solved by Retinoids

1. Fine Lines and Wrinkles:
   • How: Retinoids promote collagen production and accelerate cell turnover, which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
   • Result: Firmer, more youthful-looking skin with reduced wrinkles.
2. Acne:
   • How: By increasing cell turnover and preventing the formation of comedones, retinoids help to keep pores clear and reduce the frequency and severity of acne breakouts.
   • Result: Fewer acne breakouts and clearer skin.
3. Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots:
   • How: Retinoids accelerate the turnover of pigmented skin cells and promote the growth of new, healthy cells.
   • Result: Reduction in the appearance of dark spots and more even skin tone.
4. Rough and Uneven Skin Texture:
   • How: Retinoids enhance cell turnover, leading to a smoother skin surface.
   • Result: Improved skin texture and a more refined appearance.
5. Sun Damage:
   • How: Retinoids can help repair some of the visible damage caused by UV exposure, such as fine lines, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity.
   • Result: Healthier, rejuvenated skin.

Can You Mix AHA/BHA and Retinol?

Both the acids and retinol work by increasing the cell turnover process to show a fresher and smoother skin.

It therefore goes without saying that mixing those two can potentially give you your dream skin, getting rid of all the fine lines and wrinkles, reducing acne and hyperpigmentation and revealing a smooth and plump texture.

But too much cell turnover can also be detrimental to your skin as it can damage the skin barrier.

For this reason, it is not recommended to use these together in the same routine. The only exception is if they exist together in the same product because they have been formulated in the right percentages and won’t react with each other.

The Best Way to Use AHA/BHA and Retinol

So, since it’s not advisable to use AHA/BHA and retinol together, does it mean you can only enjoy the benefits of one?

Not exactly. The best way to use both the acids and retinol is to use them on alternate nights. 

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That means, if you use retinol on Monday, then you can use the exfoliating acids on Tuesday. 

You can also see what your skin needs the most and apply a more effective routine. For instance, if you battle with fine lines and wrinkles more than you do with inflammation and acne, then you can use retinol on most days and the acids on the remaining days, and vice versa.

Key Takeaways

• AHAs are best for dry skin as they exfoliate the skin surface removing the dead skin layer without messing with the oil.
• BHAs are best for oily skin as they penetrate deep into the pores, removing bacteria and controlling oil.
• Retinol is best for any type of skin. It is an effective anti-aging agent that reduces fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores.
• It is not recommended to use the acids and retinol together. Doing that may damage your skin barrier.
• Use the acids and retinol on alternating nights or only if they exist in the same formula.

Reference

1. Tören, E.; Mazari, A.A.; Buzgo, M. Exploring the Efficacy of AHA–BHA Infused Nanofiber Skin Masks as a Topical Treatment for Acne Vulgaris. Journal of Applied Polymer Science 2024. [ResearchGate]
2. Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2012 Winter;7(1):9-10. Epub 2012 Jan 4. [PubMed]
3. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. [PubMed]